Shane Kohlbeck is one of our longest-standing guides at The Fly Shop®. He started here in 1997 and has shared many experiences with our customers over the years. He is a saltwater junkie and loves to host trips to tropical venues all over the world. The following are a couple of quick stories about his recent trip to Christmas Island. This is a trip he has hosted many times in the past, and there is no one better to show you the ropes of this incredible fishery.
In 2027, Shane will be hosting two weeks at Christmas Island, staying at The Villages. The dates for his hosted trip are February 2–9 and February 9–16, 2027. Read his report below and give us a call here at the shop if you would like to join him for a week or two at this venerable fly fishing destination.
The Villages on Christmas Island 2026
The 25-minute truck ride to the lodge was just long enough to see the sights and local people, but not so long as to be uncomfortable. Kids on their way home from school wandered the freshly patched road, and smiles and waves were plentiful. Motorcycles sputtered down the asphalt, often with a passenger on the back or front or both. A 2-year-old riding on the gas tank was not anything out of the ordinary, with grandma driving.
Upon arriving at the lodge, familiar faces greeted me with hugs and cries of, “Welcome back, Shane!” It is something I look forward to all year, and I felt right at home. This would be my eighth trip to The Villages. Just like my first time 16 years ago, Ekes, the well-seasoned head guide, was there to welcome me and the group. He informed me that, like in years past, room assignments and fishing schedules would be my job for the next two weeks. I have got this.
The Villages is the top outfitter on the island, with boats less than a 200-foot walk from your air-conditioned cabin, daily laundry service, a bar, good food, Wi-Fi, and the only lodge on the island offering a 1:1 guide-to-angler ratio. That is right. You fish with your own personal guide every day for six days. The guide is your eyes to spot fish and also serves as a rod caddy on days you fish in locations where you could see giant trevally (GTs). He is always on the lookout for big wakes in the distance while you are targeting bonefish or triggers in close. Without a personal guide, an angler’s chances of success go way down.
The days went by quickly, always starting with 6:00 a.m. coffee, breakfast, and a self-service “make-your-own” lunch bar in the dining hall. Boats left the beach by 7:30 a.m., and we rarely returned before 4:30 p.m. Some guests were returning anglers or veteran saltwater fishermen new to “CXI,” while others were complete newbies to the saltwater game. They could not have picked a better spot to begin their journey into saltwater fly fishing addiction.
Don from Montana, on his first-ever saltwater fly fishing trip, landed a beautiful peachface triggerfish. If you have ever fished for triggers, you know how finicky they can be. It is not a fish typically considered a good choice for your first saltwater target. Some call them “The Permit of the Pacific.” Everything needs to go right to get one to hand. They spook easily, are finicky eaters, crush hooks with their vise-like jaws, and love to dive into coral dens once hooked. They can drive a person to drink. But Don did it. He landed a trigger on day one.
By the end of the first week, most of the anglers were getting addicted to chasing these floppy-tailed, cartoon-character-looking fish. Quite a few were landed, alongside dozens of bonefish and a couple of impressive trevally, including one 30-pound beauty caught by a guest at the lodge named Hamano. At 85 years young, he is still walking the flats when he is not producing movies in Japan. The photo on his phone of him teaching Tenkara techniques to Jimmy Carter in the 80s made for a great conversation piece one night at cocktail hour. This fella had some stories. I was honored to help fill his bonefish box with some of my CXI Specials, which I give away every year. He had only larger, heavier patterns that did not work well on the shallow flats where he was most comfortable walking. The #6 and #8 flies with bead-chain eyes did the trick, earning an “Arigato” or two one afternoon.
One week down, one to go.
Often overlooked, the Outside, the blue water beyond the shallow flats where we spend most of our time, sounded like a fun change of pace between groups. A couple of other stayover anglers and I decided to get some fresh meat for the incoming group and give our legs a break instead of just hanging at the lodge during changeover day. Mission accomplished, eventually. We all got schooled once or twice by unseen monsters, but each of us managed to boat several skipjack and yellowfin tuna while trolling our big rods in the blue water. When we found birds, we found fish. Lots of fish. No sailfish this time, but the wahoo that jumped five feet in the air as he ate the fly and bit through our 80-pound bite tippet like a hot knife through butter was an unforgettable memory. Might bring wire next year. It was a really fun day and should not be overlooked by anyone visiting the island.
That night, my new group was treated to a sashimi feast for appetizer hour and an excellent grilled tuna and lobster dinner. Sixteen of us were ready to take on the week, and anticipation was high. After-dinner drinks and stories were replaced with running around to clients’ cabins to make sure everyone had what they needed for day one. Day one was nothing short of spectacular for most. A few in this group were veterans, having been on the island 12 months earlier. Others were totally new to the game. Those are the guys I love meeting at the beach when they return or sharing a boat with on their first day. Nothing beats that first experience on the flats.
“The Rabbi,” on his first saltwater trip, landed over a dozen bonefish at the famous Paris Flat just after a full moon, perfect timing. That was before lunch.
Karen, also new to saltwater, scored a trigger on her first day flats fishing, along with half a dozen bonefish. Michael, a 25-year client of mine on his second trip to Christmas Island, was on a mission to rack up bonefish numbers early, land a trigger, and finally get a double-digit “Geet” to hand. The bonefish and triggerfish happened by day three.
On day four, when the guide came to collect the rods from his room, Michael decided to leave the 8-weight behind. He did not even bring it in the boat. It was a “no bones” day. Erita, the guide, seemed totally fine with that, as the tides were higher and perfect for hunting Geets.
Michael is not a small, quiet guy by any means. He is Australian and very passionate about life and fishing. His GT happened just after lunch somewhere near Orvis Flat. My ribs are still a little sore from the bear hug he gave me as soon as he boarded the boat. There were plenty of “Bloody!” and “Mate!” exclamations in the excitement, followed by a cold beer or two after the Buffs came down. Then the camera came out, and we all gathered to admire the phenomenal photos the guide had taken.
Earlier that morning, Michael told me about a dream he had weeks before the trip. In it, he turned over his shoulder and spotted two big blue GTs pushing water as they swam up onto the flat, headed right toward him. He had the line ready, not around his feet, the fly in hand, made the perfect cast, and by strip number five the water exploded and his line was peeling out. According to him, that is pretty much how it went down in real life.
“That was so much bloody fun, mate! I gotta do that again!” he exclaimed. Michael is considering returning next year.
On the way home, a good client and I rented a car and drove to a large flat on Oahu for one more shot at fish. Heavy rain nearly forced us to pull over on the way. The little rental car’s windshield wipers were a blur, but it was not enough for the amount of water falling from the clouds we were driving through.
By the time we reached the parking area, the rain had softened to a heavy mist. We took the trail down to the flat, which was semi-protected from the Small Craft Advisory winds and nearing low tide. There was no sunshine, just white clouds, occasional dark gray bursts, and drizzle. I was starting to shiver, but I knew the potential here.
About 150–200 feet out, I could barely see the bottom a rod’s length in front of me. Spotting fish seemed impossible. Was this a waste of time? Should we be at the Mai Tai bar?
Then a loud boil erupted 20 feet behind me. I turned to see a greenish missile inside a wake heading away and threw a Hail Mary cast in front of it. Which never works. And it did not. These bones are not dumb.
Ten minutes later, about 150 feet farther out, two tails popped up just out of range, upwind. As I worked quietly around them, they disappeared into the chop. We decided to walk upwind and fish back. About 300 feet in, more tails, still out of range. We posted up and waited.
Then, for the first time all day, I was grateful for a huge dark cloud overhead. The switch from white glare to dark glare could not have come at a better time. A big tail popped up and dug for food, this time in range, about 45–50 feet downwind. With the help of the dark sky, I could actually see the fish underwater against the light bottom.
I dropped my little home-tied fly four feet behind it and slightly left while it was digging and waited. Then it turned and crept toward my fly like a mouse hunting a crumb in a dark kitchen. At about 18 inches away, I gave a tiny twitch. Water exploded off its tail.
Instead of spooking, the fish lunged forward and inhaled the fly. I gave a short, hard strip set when its tail popped up. Nothing. The tail shot water again. Then it lunged forward a second time. I waited a split second longer and strip-set into the largest bonefish of my life.
Fifteen minutes later, a bro-hug happened on that flat.
Twelve-pound bonefish are not common on Christmas Island. But to reach Christmas Island, you have to spend time in a place where they are. Not a bad layover, if you ask me.
Join Shane Kohlbeck on his next hosted adventure
Shane is hosting a couple of weeks on Christmas Island at the Villages again next year.
February 02 – 09, 2027 and February 09 – 16, 2027.
Shane is also co-hosting The Fly Shop’sⓇ Saltwater School with Chris King at Andros South in the Bahamas February 28 to March 7, 2027.
Give us a call at (530) 222-3555 if you would like to spend a week on the flats with Shane.